Mama
Cocha, the first Husky 6.2 Clubracer
Beachcat
to Trimaran Conversion, the rebirth of an old idea
Sources:
Photos
with permission from Michael, http://husky6/blogspot.com.au
Graphics
from the author
Intro
In
spring 2013 Michael from Brisbane contacted me and asked if I could
design him a Club Racer Trimaran for his local races. He wanted to
use a beachcat as a base for the new tri, using the hulls as amas and
the rig and as many parts as possible to save lots of cost and time.
I've been
studying the principles of sharpie hull design for more than three
years now and find the idea of a beachcat to tri conversion very
interesting for even longer. I posted some related posts and concept
studies in different threads on boatdesign.net and other platforms.
The
Statement of Requirements
Michael
called for a fast boat with two crew and just enough payload for the
desired 2 hp outboard motor, a farrier style folding system and some
additional sails. The tri should have a well sized cockpit for
comfortable daysailing with his girlfriend and a small cabin house
for a dryer ride and good access to the generous stores in the
mainhull.
Very
important too was a simple and fast construction, because Michael is
skilled in woodworking being carpenter but has never built a boat
before. This was a real success.
The
boat was finished within 6 month after-work-building and at around
half of the weekends.
Husky
6.2 Clubracer, Data:
LoA
and LWL 6.2m, BoA 5.5m, SA 23m² (main 18m², jib 5m²), Weight
unknown, but should be around 270 to 310kg. Displ. Max. 420kg.
Husky 6.2 trimaran completed |
Building
Method and Materials
The
three plate Sharpie Hull is the easiest to build hull possible. Mama
Cocha went together really fast. The mainhull is built upside down on
a stable building jig or a flat concrete floor. It has 7
frames/bulkheads and one pairs of stringers in the middle between
chine- and sheer stringer to stiffen shell and to develop a little
three-dimensional shape to the plywood. The hull is all plywood with
6mm (¼'', 5 veneers) okume/gaboon in boatbuilding quality, all
lumber is hoop pine.
Michael
planked the hull sheet by sheet with butt joints along the way made
directly onto the hull. I would prefer scarf-joining the sheets
first and do the planking in one glueing session to save the weight
of the doublers. The mainstrength bulkheads and have wooden coamings
as a reinforcement and to give a bigger the glueing surface. Minor
frames have a glass joint. All gluing and sheeting is done with
Epoxy.
This
building method sounds a little conventional, but I think in this
kind of hull it is superior over the stitch and glue method in terms
of building time and control of the shape. You simply cut the ply a
little bigger as needed and glue it to the stringers and bulkheads.
Then you plane it down to the stringers. This is much faster than the
work with the fairing batten.
The Base, all cutouts were made later because the design was not finished at this point |
We
agreed that I was responsible for the design, balance and structure
of the boat and Michael to work out the folding system and it's
statics. The folding system was very important for Michael because he
has to store the boat on the trailer after sailing and he wanted to
be able doing this alone.
I
gave Michael a list of high volume beach cats that could work as amas
for his tri and just a few weeks later he found a Hobie 20 in good
condition and for a reasonable price. He bought it and the design
process started.
First
step was that Michael measured the hull so that I could redraw it to
locate the centers of flotation and lateral resistance, volume and so
on. The big surprise was that the Hobie 20 has a volume of more than
750 litres, giving the later tri a lot of righting moment.
The
shape of the mainhull were drawn, the centers set into the right
positions in relation from mainhull to amas, bulkheads and frames
located. I sent Michael the first drawings, allowing him to start
with the frames and he immediately began the construction of his
mainhull. It all went together very fast. To be honest, Michael built
faster than I could produce plan sheets with all the details.
If
you want to follow the building stages, have a look at Michael's
building blog at ... http://husky6.blogspot.com.au/
The
most expensive and time consuming detail was the folding system which
required help from a pro-welder and a lot of thinking, but in the
end the tri folded nice and easy.
The
first test sail in december showed that the concept works better than
expected, the boat is neutral on the helm, fast and safe and with only
the minimum of equipment mounted and jib and main hoisted,
the tri accelerated to over 12 knots in 12 – 14 knots of wind,
more than 7 knots upwind and tacking within 90°. There is no
noticeable transition from displacement to planing mode at the
hullspeed mark around 7 knots. All in all, a very promising behavior
without genoa, spinnaker and further development of the boat.
the first sail |
Concept Notes
General
Concept
The
idea of a trimaran with beach cat hulls as amas is not new and it's
is still the same as in the times when Dick Newick designed his
original Tremolino with Hobie 16 hulls. In comparison to the open
catamaran a trimaran offers comfortable and dry sitting in a cockpit
versus sitting on a deck or hiking in the trapeze. A tri has dry
stores in the mainhull for your cloth and camping gear or, in the
bigger types sufficient space for bunks and seats.
Pain
and Gain (minimizing financial pain and maximizing gain)
The
idea is simple … have or buy a suitable beachcat, build one
mainhull and two beams and you get a complete trimaran. Use nearly
every part from the beach cat: hulls, mast, sails, boards, rudder(s),
mainsheet and traveller. To say it short, everything what is really
expensive in boatbuilding and what you would have to buy if you are
building from scratch.
Ok,
you will have to modify this or that to prepare the parts for there
different use or increased forces, but in the end you will save a lot
of money.
What
to to Buy Extra
Beside
the cost for the material to build the mainhull you will need round
alloy tubes (or used mast sections) for the beams, new trampolines
and some additional sails (sreecher or genoa). Bits n pieces, thats
all.
Costs
The
costs for such a trimaran are as minimal as possible. For for a cat
in good condition with a good set of sails (very important!) you will
pay around $2000 to $4000 AUD, USD or EURO). If you have a good cat
already, good for you. Expect to pay around $2500 to $4000 for a 20 to
21 foot camp cruiser or club racer. Much less if you want a smaller,
more simple boat. A little more for a Cruiser Racer and much more if
you want to have a folding system.
Actual
Racing Cats are changing there hullforms in the moment towards the
wavepiercer concept, so the last generation of "fat volume cats“
will be offered quite cheap in the near future. They are working good
as amas. First generation wavepiercers Hobie Fox and FXone are
interesting too, but this application has to be confirmed through measurements
first.
Type
of Boats
There
are a lot of possible boats with different approaches, using different
cat hulls chosen for their special task.
From
a very basic 16 - 18 foot trimaran, possibly with one small bunk for
a single hander up to a full cabin tri with sitting headroom for two.
Daysailor, Club Racer, Camp Cruiser and even a small Cruiser Racer
is possible if you have the right ama.
Design
Notes
Sharpie
Hullform
As
said before the Sharpie Hull is fast, cheap and easy to build, that
it makes it ideal for the task. Sharpies look simple but they are
very sensible to design. The shape and the ratios have to be right to
get a fast running- low resistance hull. Therefore this designs have
to be around one foot longer than other boats in the same class. My
hulls take advantage from a small three dimensional “soft
stressforming” in the plywood to stiffen up the shell.
Design
and Styling
Not
every cat hull is possible for every kind of trimaran and so I just
have a small group of cats types for a specific trimaran design or
type. The volume of the ama has to support the weight of the boat and
payload to give the boat a fast and safe ride. And of course the
bulkheads must be located individually according to the positions of
the cat's main bulkheads.
Most
of my designs show a “modern” reverse bow, but they are no
wavepiercers. This bow is just supporting the needs of the flat
bottom that makes the sharpie hullform so succesfull in performance
and sailing behavior. The “cutout” saves weight and makes it
looking good. To match the style it is easily possible to modify the
bow of the amas with some foam and glass.
I
tried to give my designs a good and modern look with flaring
sideplanks and angled bow and transom. But the flat bottom and the
hard chines are a fact, fortunately you can't see them when the boat
is in the water . Within limits, I allow a builder to modify some
details to his taste.
Performance
Mama
Cocha reached easily 12 knot at her first sail just with main and jib
and no trimming equipment. In a 20 to 21 footer expect to get the
best overall performance in medium winds above 8 knots windspeed. In
stronger winds a max. boatspeed will be around 18 - 20 knots, hitting
the16 regularly. In light winds under 6 knots you have to counter a
little higher resistance of the hull with a genoa or screacher (code
zero).
The
simple chined hull has surprisingly only a little disadvantage in
resistance compared to a full round one, mainly in very light winds.
In winds over 8 knots it changes to some sort of “planning mode”
and from there the hull runs fast and very stable.
Beams
and Folding
I
favor the old and proven “tube and wire” system. It is light,
cheap and easy to construct. If you look around it may be that you
find some mastsections from broken or abandoned masts that could fit
the bill. A good chance to save some money.
Modern
features as dyneema seastays and quick release shackles makes
mounting/demounting fast. Have a look how it works (without seastays)
at this modern production tri.
Farrier
Folding System
I
know that its like magic when a Farrier Tri folds together, in
Germany we nicknamed them “garden chairs”. This is the same
effect when the tv shows us the retraction of the wheels in a new
developed airplane. Must be placed in men's brain somewhere.
But
please be aware that this system is very cost intensive and has a lot
of additional weight. The hullshape has to be adapted to the folding
geometrics to make the system work properly. You will need a lot of
custom made fittings and these will be very expensive if you are no
metal worker able to weld alloy.
If
you have to store your boat on the trailer or in a Marina Box or you
travel regularly every second week you may think about a folder. But
if you don't, try to resist the magic. Michael spend more time and
money on the folding system than on the bare mainhull.
Outlook
into the Future
The
Husky 6.2 Club Racer / Daysailer Design with Hobie 20 Hulls is
finished now and ready to be built again for builders experienced in
boatbuilding or woodworking. Full building plans for the first time
builder will be available around June 2014.
Other
possible cat hulls for the Husky 6.2 are Mystere 6 and 5.5
(lengthened), Nacra 6 and 5.8, Hobie Fox and other fat cats. These
have to be measured (by you) and adapted to the mainhull. This will
take a little time.
Currently
on the drawing board for a second Client from Down Under is the
Husky 6.5 Camp Cruiser. This one is big enough for a lot of camping
gear and 350kg payload. The 6.5 works together with the same cats
mentioned above, smaller ones with simple modifications to fit some
additional volume.
Husky 6.2 Club Racer |
Design
is on the way, perhaps I can fit a simple interior to make a basic
two person cruiser/racer with the same hull.
Husky 6.5, first lines, preliminary design view 2 |
In
the concept stage is a 6.8 to 7.1m Cruiser/Racer with cabin and full
sitting headroom Cruiser Racer with 400 kg payload, enough for
weekend and holiday cruising as well as club racing. Amas will be
from lengthened Hobie 20 Miracle or Mystere 6 cats (or other fat cats
I have not discovered yet). I think this is the maximum possible if
you are using the cat to tri conversion.
The big one, concept stage |
In the pipeline
Smaller,
more daysailer oriented boats are possible using smaller cat's.
Conclusion
I
think a cat to tri conversion is a good way to get on the water with
a multihull, if you have a proper concept and design. It may not be
the fastest boat possible, but it is cheap and fast and you get a
fair boat with a good overall performance.
In
every way it is better than dreaming about a production trimaran you
cannot afford.
Feel
free to contact me . Send e-mail to michel.fe@gmx.de
and we can chat about your ideas and possibilities.
Best
Regards,
Michel
hello where can i bay this plans for nuild te trimaran 6.20 greetings samuel
ReplyDeletesamuelghoost@gmail.com
Contact Michel Fedisch in regards to plans for the Husky 6.2 on the following email address: michel.fe@gmx.de
ReplyDeleteHi Owen, is Michel still contactable. Have sent him a email with no reply. Keen to build a small trimaran in Brisbane using Nacra 5.8 or Tornado hulls and existing rigging. 6m to 7m Daysailing Tri and possibly carry some gear for overnight camping.
ReplyDeleteHi, Gordon, I haven't been able to raise Michel for a while now. A good alternative might be the Strìke 20 trimaran design by Richard Woods.
Delete